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Frequently Asked Questions
At Mica we pride ourselves on our product expertise, knowledgeable advice and customer service excellence - we do have 25 years of experience in customer satisfaction after all! So tap into our extensive knowledge base and ask us your DIY and hardware related questions. Let us show you how!
Ask us a Question
| MICA FAQ | | Q: | How can I oil hinges without dripping excess oil on the carpet? | | A: | Tie a length of thin string or wool to the top hinge, loop it around the second hinge and then drap the end in the upturned lid of a jar or similar. Excess oil will flow down the string and into the lid. No mess. |
| | Q: | Just wondering, could I pay my car disc renewal with you guys? | | A: | Dear Customer,
Thank you for your question. Unfortunately we do not offer this service. Yours sincerely, The Mica Team |
| | Q: | How do I stop a skin forming on top of paint in its container? | | A: | There are two ways: you can store the container upside-down, but probably better still is to spray a fine mist of mineral turpentine on the surface of an oil-base paint, or fine spray of water on to the surface of a water-base paint. Carefully close and seal the container and then move it, equally carefully - to avoid disturbing the film - to the storage position. |
| | Q: | How do I clean a fungus on the rough casted bathroom wall ?
How do I prevent it from not happening again ? | | A: | Greetings,
Concrete is porous, and mould on it can take many forms, and usually forms after water has seeped through the wall. In your case, however, I think it more likely that as the problem is in a bathroom, which is a very humid place, anyway, the fungus is able to thrive.
First of all, you need to get rid of the mould and you can do that by washing the walls down with a solution of four parts water to one part ordinary household bleach. You can also find specific products designed to combat mould - your local Mica will be able to advise you as to the right product.
Having removed all the mould, your best bet is to paint the surface with a good paint, with an anti-fungal additive; again, your local Mica will be able to advise you.
Having done all that, keeping the bathroom clear of mould is actually very easy�
Make sure you keep it well ventilated; open windows when showering or bathing, and leave them and the door open afterwards. That will allow the moist air to escape, and dry air to come in.
For a longer-term solution, you might need to waterproof the walls, inside and out, in order to seal them; again, your local Mica will be able to advise you.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | Hi, is there a product that i can use to apply to a wooden bookcase before painting instead of sanding? The bookcase has a coat of varnish and is oak. thanks
Pam | | A: | Greetings,
You could apply stripper and remove the varnish. However, you do not need to remove the varnish before painting the bookcase. You need only give it a light sanding, just to literally scratch the surface and give it what is called a key to which the finish you are applying, can adhere.
Just bear in mind that if the varnish is oil-based, then the paint you use should also be oil-based.
In all projects like this, it is best, however, to test the process and finish on a small, unobtrusive area, and then complete the project. If, however, the small area does not appeal or there is another problem, it is not as if you have to sort out the whole bookcase; then ask your local Mica paint department for further advice.
I trust that will assist you.
Kinds regards,
Joe
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | where do i find stage curtain tracks | | A: | Greetings,
Mica stores do stock curtain rails but for a stage curtain, you would need a track that is far stronger. Try your local Mica first and see if they can identify a supplier for you.
If they cannot, then check your Yellow Pages directory for your area, and under the headings "Stage Erecting and Lighting" and "Stages & Staging", and contact the companies that are listed there.
They will probably not be able to sell you the tracks you want, but they should be able to give you the name of companies that do make tracks for stage curtains.
I trust the above will be of assistance to you.
kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | 1.How long is a 14 Feets corrugated iron in metres & how much can you guys charge me if I need about 45 Sheets & 40 of 3m treated poles | | A: | Greetings,
14 feet is 4.27m and as regards what your sheeting and poles will cost, visit your local Mica, who will be happy to advise you.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | I want to know how to fix a wall that its paint is peeling off. | | A: | Paint often peels because there is moisture getting in under the paint film, and you can recognise this by the fact that large areas of the paint peel off. If adhesion is the problem then peeling may be spotty... in small areas here and there.
So... potential causes of peeling include:
- Moisture getting behind paint film from roof leaks in roof or through an insufficiently sealed wall that meets an earth bank.
- Faulty guttering.
- A leaking water pipe in the wall itself.
- Painting when the surface being painted is wet from condensation or rain.
- Keeping windows and doors closed in bathrooms and so on, so that steam cannot escape.
Repairs:
- Fix the roof leak or the faulty guttering.
- Dig back from the wall, if it holds back earth, clean it and seal it properly with a good sealant your local Mica will be able to advise you.
- Eliminate the cause of the steaming up by leaving doors and windows open to allow dry air in and steamy air out.
- Scrape away old peeling paint and sand affected areas.
- Spot prime bare areas.
- Repaint with a high quality acrylic latex house paint. |
| | Q: | Do you sell stove plates and if you do how much is the big and small plates respectively | | A: | Greetings,
You would need to chat to your local Mica manager to see what hotplates are available. Generally, Mica sells the necessary wiring, plugs and other components required for fitting stoves, and many branches also sell hotplates. If your local Mica does not have what you need in stock, however, I am sure you will get good advice on where it will be available.
kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | How do you conect your bath water outlet pipe to garden area | | A: | Greetings,
The easiest way to do this is check the gulley outside the bathroom and confirm which PVC pipe is from your bath. The pipes are usually 40mm or 50mm diameter.
Attach a right-angle connection to the end of the pipe probably theres no need to glue it on as it should be a tight fit; in fact its perhaps better not to glue it on as you may want to remove it later.
To the right-angle, attach a further length of PVC pipe long enough to protrude over the edge of the gulley.
Finally, to that length of pipe, I suggest attach a couple of lengths of pool cleaner pipe. This is so that you can change the position of the outflow every so often; if you have the outflow only in one place, the plants there may get too much soap, shampoo, bath oil and so on, and could be damaged.
All of these pipe components are available from your local Mica's plumbing and pool departments.
I trust the above assists you.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | Polyurothane is a difficult product to work with. What is the best method to use for applying it on a wood table without having paintbrushmarks, rollerbubbels ons clothcircles. I have tried it all and the surface is stillnot smooth! Please help me urgently. Thankyou | | A: | Greetings,
Applying water-based polyurethane:
If you are applying water-based polyurethane over a previously stained surface on which an oil-based finish was applied, then you will have to sand the surface thoroughly to prevent the new finish beading.
Applying water-based polyurethane is essentially the same as that for applying an oil-based one, and you can use the same selection of applicators, but you need to keep the first coat as light as possible, to avoid raising the grain, and you probably won\\\'t need to sand between each coat. But you probably will have to apply a great deal more than three or four coats� possibly five or more.
Good news is that drying times are far less than they are for oil-based products, so the time factor might not be the issue you thought it could have been.
Applying oil-based polyurethane:
You can apply oil-based polyurethane using a good-quality fine-bristled brush, a clean cloth or a foam brush. Don\\\'t use cheap bristle brushes, as these will tend to leave obvious brush strokes. Foam brushes work well, as they are not expensive and produce an even finish without many brush strokes. Brush with the grain of the wood, using a sufficient, but not overly thick coat of polyurethane. Don\\\'t over brush, but be sure use long strokes to brush out as many bubbles as possible. The few remaining bubbles will soon disappear.
After the first coat has dried thoroughly to be sure you should allow 24 hours or so, depending on the weather (when its hot and dry, the polyurethane may dry somewhat quicker). Once it is dry, sand it lightly, with the grain, with fine sandpaper 320 grit works well. But don\\\'t sand too hard, or too fast, as friction could cause the surface to melt. Then carefully dust the surface with a soft cloth and remove all the dust before applying a second coat.
To achieve the finish you want, you may have to apply a third or even fourth coat, sanding between each as above.
Lightly rubbing the final surface with fine steel wool and applying a coat of furniture wax will help achieve a fine finish.
Additional Tips:
Use thinner coats on vertical surfaces to avoid runs, which you can usually sand out or remove with a razor blade.
When applying polyurethane, have a bright light to hand, and check your work from different angles - that makes it easier to spot areas that need a little more� or a little less.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | Do you sell Patio Furniture ? | | A: | Greetings,
Yes, many Mica stores do sell patio furniture, umbrellas, braais and so on. Ask at your local Mica for details.
kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | I am renting an apartment and would like to hang paintings. Do you have any products that can be used instead of nails, as I do not want to damage the walls. | | A: | Greetings,
One can use adhesive cloth pads that have a built-in hook, but they are generally suitable only for small paintings and in any event how well they perform will depend on the surface on which they have been stuck. If the paint is not of a good quality or its adhesion is suspect, then it will simply pull away from the wall leaving an unsightly scar.
For heavier paintings, you possibly could use a heavy-duty mirror tape, but that will be difficult to remove should you leave the flat, and will probably require a reasonably large paint repair job to make good the surface.
I cannot think of any attachment method that will support heavier pictures other than by making a hole in the wall either using the small plastic hooks that have two, three or four tiny pins that penetrate the plaster, or, for a very heavy painting, a screw or nail driven into the wall.
That does mean that when you leave, you will have to remove the screw or nail and fill the hole, but that is usually very small and easy to make an invisible repair.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | I want to make wooden flowerboxes. What kind of wood treatments should I use and can you suggest any products? | | A: | Greetings,
I would suggest a product such as colbrite PCP or similar as the wood, on the inside at least, will almost always be wet, or damp. Apply after drilling any drainage holes, and ensure that you apply the preservative in a well-ventilated area, and wear face and eye protection.
If this product is not in stock, then check with your local Mica for a suitable alternative.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | Hi, do you stock numbers for postboxes and do you have diff sizes? tks | | A: | Greetings,
Yes, your local Mica should stock a range of numbers, either self-adhesive or fixed with screws.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | | | A: | What is your query? |
| | Q: | hi,
do your stores stock an oak furniture cleaner.
and whats it called.
thanks sadeck hamid | | A: | Greetings,
My apologies for the delay in responding; I have just returned from overseas.
In response to your query, I have been in touch with my local Mica and they do not stock oak cleaners, so it is likely that other Mica stores do not do so either. Check with your local Mica, however, just in case, but if the product is not stocked, then I suggest you apporach a furniture restorer/manufacturer in your area.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | I want to install solar water heating. I know to choose a service provider accredited with Eskom (for the rebate) & SABS. What are some pitfalls I must look out for. It's a big investment and I don't want to choose the wrong service provider. Your advice would be appreciated. Thanks | | A: | Greetings,
My apologies for the delay in responding; I have just returned from overseas.
In response to your query, I would suggest that you contact your local Eskom office and find out which installers in your area are accredited. Then, I would do the rounds of my neighbourhood and simply ask a number of homeowners with solar panels who did the work and if it was satisfactory. I think this is better than contacting the businesses directly as they would tend to pass on the contact details only of those clients who they know were happy with the work; checking with the homeowners directly should give you a better idea of who to select. Ideally you should end up with a couple of names of what appear to be good contractors, and you could approach them for quotes.
Regarding the quotes, ideally they should be on an official company form, and they should be itemised in detail, so you know exactly what work will be done, and why. Once you have them, you should be able to make your choice.
I also suggest you ensure there is a warranty against faults so that you have some sort of assurance that any faults that appear within, say, two years, will be rectified.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | Our toilet is glogged any ideas please? Do you sell Toilet Auger?
Thank you
Maritza | | A: | Greetings,
Mica stores do stock an item called the drill snake - it is very flexible shaft about 10mm in diameter that you insert through the drain. The rotating core is attached to a drill; the other end of the rotating core having a screw-like fitting that is designed to clear the obstruction. When the drill is turned on the flexible wire core rotates rapidly and the screw-like end clears the obstruction. If your local Mica does not have a drill snake in stock, they should be able to order one for you.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | HOW MUCH IS A 5 LITRE TIN OF PAINT-DOUBLE VELVET.
HOW MUCH IS A 3 LEVER LOCKER AND 4 LEVER AND WHAT IS THE DIFFERENT BETWEEN THESE TWO | | A: | Greetings,
I checked at my local Mica and 5 litres of Double Velvet usually retails at around R375. Please note, however, that there are sometimes specials, and in any event, as Mica stores are independently owned, prices for the same product may vary.
With regard to your question on locks:
A 2-lever retails for around R160, while a 3-lever will cost you around R180. Note again, prices may vary from the above.
The difference is this: the 2-lever has a possible number of combinations of 12, so any burglar need carry only a limited number of keys (12) and one will probably fit the lock. For this reason (the limited number of combinations), 2-lever locks are used on interior doors where their purpose is more to secure the door for reasons of privacy, rather than security. The keys for these locks can be purchased from many Micas and/or locksmiths, so they are freely available.
A 3-lever lock, on the other hand, has 150 possible combinations, which means an intruder would have to carry and test as many as 150 keys before he finds the one that fits the lock. That means he will probably have to work longer before gaining entry, and that would mean a greater chance of alerting the homeowner or a neighbour. For this reason, 3-lever locks are the preferred choice for securing outside doors.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | can i order something and pay on your bank account while i'm far away from home | | A: | Thank you for your question. You would have to contact the Mica branch that you will be purchasing from, and discuss this with them. To find your nearest branch, please call us on 086 11 22 114. |
| | Q: | Hi there
I ecently had the house painted and my wooden table was scratched from the moving around - any great ideas on how I can make it look new again? | | A: | Greetings, it depends on how deep the scratches are, and the finish. If the table is painted and the scratches are not deep you should be able to hide them with two to three coats of paint to match the existing paint. If the scratches are deep, then you may have to fill them with wood filler, then sand, then paint. If the finish is varnish, then probably your only recourse would be to remove the existing varnish by using a stripping solution, and then sand the top to remove the scratches. Thereafter, you would then have to apply three coats of varnish, diluting the first coat by 10% with turpentine and sanding lightly between the second and last coats to key the surface. Kind regards, Joe |
| | Q: | Could you add store opening hours to the info on the store-locator page? It would be useful . . . | | A: | Greetings, thank you for this suggestion. We shall consider it. Kind regards, Joe |
| | Q: | hi, what paint should i use for cement rock features(artificial rock)& also a sealer | | A: | Greetings,
You can use water-base PVC paint on artificial rocks, but I would suggest that you select at least a couple earth-tone colours and apply them in a random manner in order to achieve a dappled/mottled effect so that you achieve a weathered look; few if any natural rocks are a uniform flat colour. Secondly, you might consider using a stippling machine (a hand-cranked piece of apparatus that is usually used for applying thin plaster to a wall). Using this would help give you a speckled finish.
The ideal is to mask off most of the underside of one of the ‘rocks’ and practise and experiment until you achieve the natural finish you want; then apply the same finish to the rest of the surfaces.
As regards a sealer, you could use any clear floor sealer available from your local Mica paint department. I would suggest, however, that you use a matt sealer, as a gloss will probably not enhance a natural look.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | i bought pretty glue the 1 that got 2 tubes inside it work very well but i was so stupit when i used it i glue my table up side down now i need something that can help me unglue it please help | | A: | Greetings,
It is difficult to suggest a remedy without knowing the make and formulation of the glue. I suggest you check the packaging to see if a solvent is suggested for removing the glue in the event of mistakes such as occurred here. Failing that, chat to the department head in the Mica from which you bought the glue and ask him/her to ask the manufacturer\'s sales representative for advice.
kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | My wooden floor has some deep scratches in it from a screw that was under my couch.How do i effectively sand it away and what products do i use to keep the stain similar to what it was? | | A: | Greetings,
It depends on the depth of the scratches and the finish. In the case of shallow scratches, one can usually sand them off, but when they are deep, too much of the surface has to be removed and that makes the floor uneven.
Therefore, if as you say the scratches are deep, then I suggest that you sand the area lightly to remove whatever sealer has been used on the floor (or use a suitable stripper). Then you will need to apply matching wood filler to the scratches, leaving the filler proud of the surface. Once it has dried thoroughly, sand it down carefully until the surface is totally smooth.
As regards what stain you should use, it’s difficult to suggest a definite remedy without knowing what finish has been used, and in what colour. I suggest therefore that you chat to the manager of your local Mica’s paint department for advice; if you can recover some of the stain/finish you removed from the affected area, then even better.
The manager should then be able to advise you accordingly. When you have the suggested product, I strongly suggest you ask the manager if you can return it if it is not the right colour/product. Then apply a very small amount of the product to a SMALL area – literally about a centimetre by a centimetre. If the result matches the existing floor, then complete the job. If not, you might, by previous arrangement as mentioned above, be able to return the product to the manager and substitute it for one more suitable.
Kind regards, Joe |
| | Q: | the top of my cupboard door iss welling because of towels hanging over it-what is teh best way to fix it without replacing the whole door-teh door is made out of superwood. | | A: | Greetings,
The first thing you need to do, of course, is make sure no one hangs damp towels over the top of the door. Supawood is a manufactured wood and unless properly sealed will absorb moisture, which then causes it to swell.
I suggest you remove the door and leave in a shaded area on a hot day for a good few hours, to ensure the affected area can dry thoroughly.
Then, when you are satisfied it’s dry, sand the swollen area down carefully using 80 or 100 grade sandpaper until you have a smooth surface.
Now apply a sealer to the entire sanded area, including the top edge, allow it to soak in and dry, then sand again very lightly to key the surface.
To finish, apply two or three coats of matching paint, as necessary, so that the sanded area is uniform with the rest of the door.
Quite frankly, I have found that sometimes it pays to apply two coats over a repaired area, and then a third – but to the entire surface, so you achieve a very uniform finish.
Replace the door and tell everyone the top is no longer a hanger for towels!
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | is there a product repair the silvering on a mirror (the silvering was scratched and the mirror has a mark that is visibe)? | | A: | Greetings,
I am not aware of a product such as the one your require, but I do know that some glaziers offer a resilvering service - they will resilver mirrors that are marred, and might also be able to make repairs.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | Does your store sell any water puritication pumps or equipment and what are your prices? | | A: | Greetings, and my apologies for the delay in responding, but I have just returned from overseas.
With regard to your query, usually pool pumps, purification filters, and so on are stocked by specialist swimming-pool concerns, but there is no harm in trying your local Mica and asking if they could cost the required items for you and then, if the price is acceptable to you, ordering them for you. Some of the larger Mica stores may well stock what you require.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | I read that you can actually paint your enamel bath. What kind of products would you need and how effective is it? | | A: | Greetings, and my apologies for the delay in responding, but I have just returned from overseas.
Yes, there is a product called Rust-O-Leum, which you should be able to order from your local Mica. I have never tried the product myself, and cannot vouch for it myself, but I am not aware of anyone being dissatisfied, provided the manufacturer’s instructions are complied with.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | The house that i bought has two different colour face bricks,how can i get them to be the same colour,is there a type of varnish one can use? | | A: | Greetings, and my apologies for the delay in responding, but I have just returned from overseas.
This is a tough one; the only product that I have heard of and which might, I repeat, might be suitable, is Earthcote, which is, as far as I am aware, formulated for staining concrete. Should you decide to give it a try, I suggest that you buy the smallest container you can of the chosen colour and then try the product in a very small area in an unobtrusive part of the wall. If it does not achieve the desired result then you can at least remove it with a strong water jet. If the final result is was desired, bear in mind you will have to seal the wall as well – the paint department at your local Mica will be able to advise you on a suitable sealer. I also understand that Earthcote might not be stocked by Mica, so you may need to see if your local branch could order some for. I also did a search and found two US companies – Brickwork Stain Technologies Inc. (http://www.brickstain.net/) and PermaTint (http://www.permatint.com/home.html) and have written to both to find out if they export their products to SA, or if they would consider exporting small one-off batches, such as you might need. The potential problem should they be amenable, and you decided to place an order is of course, that if you are not satisfied with the product or the end result, you have little if any recourse. I will advise you further as and when I receive a reply from either company.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | I'm about to use a planer on a surface but I am a little worried about the tips of any panel pins driven in from underneath damaging the planer's blades. How can I avoid this?
| | A: | Greetings,
The quickest and easiest way is to pull a spatula across the surface to be planed. If any panel pin tip is protruding - even a very small distance - the spatula blade will \'tick\', alerting you. You can then use a punch to drive the tip of the pin below the surface and then plane as normal. Any hole that remains where you used the puch is simply filled with matching wood filler and then saned flat, once the filler has dried.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | how much is a flushmast repair kit | | A: | Greetings,
My apologies for the delay in responding but I have been away on business.
According to my local Mica, the basic Flushmaster repair kit retails for about R200, and the version with piston included, retails for about R300.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | how much is a 10litre of a plastic bucket | | A: | Greetings,
My apologies for the delay in responding but I have been away on business.
According to my local Mica, a heavy-duty 12-litre bucket retails for about R115, and the 20-litre version for about R170. Note, however, that these are heavy duty and designed for heavy work. If you wish to use the bucket in the garden, for example, then a much lighter, and cheaper one, should be sufficient.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | I need some paints for my house, i just want to know if you offer credit. What are the requirement for cretit. | | A: | Greetings,
Apply at your local Mica to open an account. As is normal with any application for credit with any retailer, your application will have to be assessed in terms of the National Credit Act and your own credit-worthiness.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | Hi, I recently replaced two old taps in my laundry area, and whereas the one new tap screwed in perfectly & works with no leaks, the other has a slight leak from where the new tap screws into the wall fitting. Could this be a thread problem? or could the wall fitting possibly be dammaged? The new tap on this fitting only seems to screw in half way on its tread before stopping, whereas the other side screwed in all the way. Any suggestions? | | A: | Greetings,
Your query puzzled me, but I hope I have an answer for you. Assuming the wall fittings are the same, then either tap should fit either side – assuming the taps are identical as well, which I am sure they are. Then the only logical reasons I can think of for the one tap not fully seating is either one fitting or tap has a damaged thread, as you suggest, or there is possibly more thread tape on the one you cannot seat properly. The way you could check would be to turn your mains water off, and then remove both taps, apply the same amount of thread tape to the thread of each, and switch them around. If the one that seated fully on one side does not fully seat on the other side, and the one that didn’t now does, then the wall fitting could well be the problem and would need to be replaced. I hope that provides an answer, but my apologies if it doesn’t, but it is rather difficult to know what to suggest sight unseen. In passing, here is some advice for anyone replacing a tap assembly on an existing tap, (or changing a tap washer, for that matter). Ensure the tap is fully ‘open’, so that the shaft is fully withdrawn. Then wind a little thread tape around the thread, and screw the assembly on to the tap body and tighten with a spanner. Only then close the tap. If the tap is not fully ‘open’, then the central shaft is protruding more from the assembly and the washer comes up hard against the flange, and you cannot tighten the assembly any further, and it sticks out further. I hope the above helps you solve your problem.
Kind regards, Joe |
| | Q: | i want to paint my stained coffee table how do i know if the varnish is oil based? what paint do i use over the varnish? | | A: | Greetings,
I checked with my local Mica paint department manager and he says trying to tell the difference between an oil-base and water-base finish can be a bit of a mission, since the finishes often appear virtually the same – gloss/gloss, satin/satin, matt/matt. Water-base products are popular because they dry quickly and cleaning of brushes, roller and so on requires washing in water, whereas oil-base products require mineral turpentine or brush cleaner for cleaning. The other aspect that makes water-base popular is its quick-drying properties. But… how do you tell which is which on a previously coated surface? Some research came up with the following… you are going to have to sand the table anyway, to ‘key’ the surface, and as you do so, consider the following: use 180 grit paper to sand and if after sanding with minimal effort, the existing coating begins to create a soft powder, the coating was oil-based. If, however, after light sanding, there is little dust, and ‘globs’ of the coating are adhering to the sandpaper, the the chances are, the coating was water-based. You can then visit your local Mica and buy the water- or oil-base paint as appropriate, and apply it as per the manufacturer’s instructions.
I trust the above helps.
Kind regards, Joe |
| | Q: | What are companies that supply u with the vegetable seeds. | | A: | Greetings,
My local Mica stocks Starke-Ayers seeds, but your Mica may well stock other brands.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | I would like to paint my bedroom, but I have a few hairline cracks and places where the cement is chipped, what can I use to fix this. I want something that is easy and clean to use. Thank You | | A: | Greetings,
Filling hairline cracks is very easy. Buy a packet of interior Polyfilla at your local Mica, plus a spatula, if you don\'t already have one. Mix a small amount of the filler with water as per the manufacturer’s instructions to create a stiff paste, and use the spatula sweep small amounts of it into the cracks. Allow it to dry, and then sand it down so that it is flush with the wall surface.
For chips, follow the same procedure, using the spatula to smooth off the surfaces. For large chips, insert some filler, allow it to dry, and then build it up further in layers until the chipped area is more than filled. Then allow it to dry, and then sand it down flush with the surrounding surface.
It is best to mix the filler in small batches if you are doing a lot of filling, so that you don’t waste too much at the end – having too much left over – or it begins to dry out as you are still working with it.
I trust the above helps.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | please could you provide me with a step by step guide on how to restore parquet flooring, alternatively with a book or website,etc that provides detailed information on how to restore parquet flooring
thanks
| | A: | Greetings, I trust the following will be of assistance to you:
1. Check the floor:
Check for damaged, loose blocks or missing blocks, but ensure you check the entire floor – you’ll notice the missing blocks, but you’ll need to feel for any that move when you stand on them; a raised block is often a sign that it is loose. You will also get a hollow sound when you tap them.
Some original parquet floors have small tongue and grooves to lock them together so be careful when handling or removing loose or damaged blocks. Missing blocks can be sourced perhaps from another room, which you do not plan to restore, or from reclamation yards. Failing that, you may need to cut blocks from matching wood, lift an existing block from a less intrusive area (under a chair, for example) and use it to replace the missing on the very visible area. Naturally, take care to ensure that the replacement blocks are an exact fit, and as close a colour match as you can achieve.
2. Clean blocks and remove bitumen from underfloor
Bitumen, aka tar, was the usual medium used to glue parquet flooring block down, so you first need to remove it; it’s likely that if the floor is old, the bitumen will be hard and flake off relatively easily.
3. Level the underfloor
If when removing the bitumen you damaged the underfloor, you will need to level it again. Your local mica will be able to advise you as to the best product to use; follow the instructions, and ensure you do not overfill, as you will then have to chip out some of the material in order to get the block to reseat properly; if it does not, and it stand proud, you could trip on it.
4. Re-install the blocks
Dry-fit the block - a good idea is to slip a loop of fishing line around one end – about 15mm from the end, so you can easily remove it again. Now apply the adhesive – Mica will be able to advise as to a suitable product, and reposition the block; if it is too low, use the fishing-line loop to pull it up, and add some of the adhesive; likewise, if it too high, pull it up and remove some of the adhesive. Once you are satisfied with the fit, snip the loop of line and pull it free. Repeat the same procedure with other loose or damaged blocks. Also, ensure you follow the existing pattern. A tip: to avoid getting adhesive on neighbouring blocks, use masking tape and newspaper along the edges of the open space to protect the blocks.
5. Sand the whole floor
To achieve the best result and a uniform finish, it is best to sand the whole area, but make sure that you allow sufficient curing time for the adhesive before doing so – starting to sand too early could see you stepping on blocks and feeling them sink a little under your weight. You may also have to remove the existing finish first, and then sand; again, your local Mica will be able to advise as to the best stripping product. Once the floor has been stripped – if that was necessary, give it a thorough vacuum to remove all debris.
Large walk-along belt sanders are designed to sand floors and your local Mica should be able to advise as to a company that hires these out; alternatively, consult your Yellow Pages. For sanding the edges, you should be able to use a small orbital hand-sander.
When using the belt sander, you’d start with 40 grit paper (or as advised by the rental shop), which will remove flooring material at a fearful rate, so keep the sander moving; the rental shop will be able to advise you techniques.
Sand the whole floor in one direction, and then at a right angle to that, so that you get an even finish. Having sanded the floor with the 40 grit paper, change it for 80 grit, and repeat; by the end of this you should have a smooth, level floor. Collect the sanded material from the 80 grit sanding – you will be using it as filler.
6. Fill the gaps and give a final sanding
You can fill any gaps between the blocks with wood filler or cold glue mixed with the sanded material you collected. Mix small amounts at a time, and push it into any gaps with a spatula. Try not to get too much on surrounding blocks, but do not worry if you do – your final sanding with 120-grit paper will remove any marks.
Leave the filler to dry and then do your final sanding. Once that is done, give the entire floor a very thorough sanding to remove all the debris and then apply the finish of your choice as supplied by your local Mica. Allow sufficient time for the finish to curer, and you have a new floor.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | 1. Is there a product that cleans tile grouting i.e. restoring it to it's original colour (especially for white grouting in bathrooms).
2. What's the easiest way to remove existing tiles? Is there something that can weaken the grouting for easier removal? | | A: | Greetings,
Here are some cleaning/cleaner ideas for you:
1. Mix 1/2 cup of baking soda with 1/4 cup of white vinegar to form a paste.
2. Apply paste to dirty grout areas (depending on how large the grouted area is that needs to be cleaned, you might need to make more paste). Let it sit for 20 to 30 minutes.
3. After the paste has penetrated, use the toothbrush or grout brush and scrub the areas to which you applied the paste.
4. Rinse with a clean sponge and warm water.
If a particularly stubborn spot remains after rinsing, simply repeat the process and let the paste penetrate a bit longer, scrub and rinse.
Or…
Make up this tile and grout cleaner; you can use it frequently without any health issues (but do not use it with chlorine bleach or where chlorine bleach has been used) and it works on soap deposits and when cleaning tile surfaces.
•1/2 cup of baking soda
•1/3 cup of ammonia
•1/4 cup of white vinegar
•7 cups of water
Spray it on and then wipe with a damp sponge or cloth; you do not need to rinse it off.
As regards any products that can make grouting easier to remove, the only product I know that works is elbow grease (i.e. - hard work)… you have to use a lot of effort to scrape the grout out from between the tiles.
As to removing the tiles, expect breakages… all you can really do is chip them out; some should come away without any damage, but there will be other that will crack and break. Wear leather gloves as the broken edges of tiles are sharp, stout shoes - for the same reason, and safety glasses, to protect you eyes from flying chips.
Tape a large drop cloth to the junction of the wall and floor so that whatever falls on the floor can be easily and quickly removed.
I trust the above will be of assistance to you.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | what is the best inepxpensive power saw to buy for cutting melamine, chipboard, superwood and wooden shelving. Which blades should I buy. I want to change my kitchen cupboards. | | A: | Greetings,
Cutting melamine or chipboard with a jigsaw is difficult to achieve a straight edge until you acquire the necessary skill; it is also difficult to achieve without at least some chipping of the melamine, or the veneer – if you use veneered board. However, as most cuts when working on cupboard require straight cuts, I suggest a circular saw fitted with an 80-tooth triple chip blade, which should give you a very good finish, though there are likely to be some tiny chips on the bottom face of the cut. You could also use a 60-tooth negative rake blade which some authorities say will give you a perfect finish on both sides of the board. As regards the make of circular saw, my personal preference would be for either a Bosch or Skil model, but any of the brands stocked by Mica should give you a good result.
The bottom line from me is that since your kitchen cupboards will be around for a long time and you will have to see them every day, the better the quality of the blade and saw you use, the better you result is likely to be.
Alternatively, you might consider hiring a suitable saw or, and this I suggest would be your best option, if you Mica store offers a cutting and edging service, design your cupboard and triple check all your measurements, and then have the various pieces cut and edged for you.
Then all you have to do is assemble the cupboards.
I trust the above will be of assistance to you.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | Hi, Please assist with the ff:
I have a small room (app: 4mX4m) with parquet flooring which I would like to restore, I have been researching on how to do so and have come up with the ff method, please inform if I am moving in the right direction and also kindly correct where I might be wrong:
First, I need to stick down all the loose blocks after sanding/removing as much of the bitumen as possible - please inform what product I can use to reglue? Also, I will need to fill in any holes/cracks with filler - again which product can I use and how?
Second, I need to sand the floor, as I am working on a strict budget I do not intend hiring a sanding machine. According to my research, a belt sander is the best to use - can I use a normal belt sander to do this - if so, please recommend one and also instruct on the grits I need to use, when and how many times I need to sand, also kindly inform on which direction I should sand as the blocks are laid out in a square basket design.
Thirdly, I need to seal the floor, please inform again as to which product I can use to do this, also how many times should I apply the sealant and also which tools would be most appropriate (what type of brush, etc). As a matter of interest, I would also like to know if it would be possible to use a sealer that has been designed for the outdoors as these seem to be much stronger, as I am looking for a sealer which is extremely strong and long lasting.
Is there anything further that I would need to do after this? Can you also recommend a good book/books which provide information on restoring parquet flooring.
Your detailed help would be greatly appreciated (ps: this is my first project)
Many thanks
| | A: | Greetings,
I trust that my answer to the other question you submitted on this subject provides the information you require. However, as regards the products you can use, I suggest you chat to your local Mica paint department manager, who will be best able to provide you with suitable recommendations as to products. He or she will be best placed to advise as you will be able to raise any points you need to based on the advice you receive.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | What is better to finish a wooden floor with. Oil or varnish? | | A: | Greetings,
I would suggest that a varnish or sealer would be the better choice than oil as the latter would probably have to be repeated as it soaks into the wood over time. A varnish/sealer, on the other hand, is pretty long-lasting, though it can take a beating in high-traffic areas such as passageways. The other factor you should consider is the fact that should you drop any liquids on the floor, it is generally easier to clean up a varnished/sealed floor, whereas liquids falling on an oiled floor might seep into the wood and stain it.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | How do you get the gloss back on a mica sheet. I used a thinner to clean off the paint and it made the surface dull. How do I get the gloss back? | | A: | Greetings,
This is an unusual problem and I trust the following advice will assist you.
Mica stores stock buffing pads and compounds - there is a Tork Craft pack available. The pads are fitted on to a drill and the buffing compound is applied. Then the drill is turned on and the slowly rotating pad is applied to the surface. The trick is to use the correct buffing compound, run the drill at slow speed, and keep it moving across the surface. If you have a look at this url, http://peco.manufacturer.globalsources.com/si/6008828481583/pdtl/Car-polisher/1007164704/Polish-Rouge.htm, you will see what the buffing compounds look like, and their various applications. I suggest try the above on a very small area to check results and if satisfied, complete the job. Also chat to your local Mica expert, who may well be able to advise you of alternative products or techniques.
I trust the above is of assistance to you.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | Hi
My parquet floors are stained. I need to restore it . What should I do to bring it back to life? Thanks. | | A: | Greetings,
What you will need to do is remove the floor’s existing sealer/polish (you may need to apply a stripper, or may be able to sand it off) and then sand the floor until you have removed the stained areas. (See my answers to other question on the subject of sanding floors for advice on how to achieve the desired result.) Then vacuum thoroughly to pick up any sanding dust and apply the sealer of your choice (the staff in the paint department at your local Mica will be able to advise you as to the best product/s for this purpose).
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | My Jacuzzi pipes was replaced by another person, however there is some leaks. Any product on the market which I could use to seal all the joints (T pieces and elbows)something heavy duty that would somehow fuse the pvc pipe and fitting. I heard about Plus Bond but need to seal these pipe ASAP without dismantling the pipes
Kindest Regards
Pine | | A: | Greetings.
Ideally, I think you should dismantle any faulty joints and then reassemble them, but if you do not wish to then applying the product to the outer surface is your option – the one I assume you prefer, as you do not wish to dismantle the join. According to my local Mica, there are two products on the market: PVC Weld (About R25 a tube) and PVC-U (about R30 a tube), either of which should be able to seal any leaks. You will probably have to drain the jacuzzi, at least to below the level of the leaking joins, so that you can dry each join thoroughly before using either of the above-mentioned products.
I trust this will be of assistance to you.
Kind regards, Joe |
| | Q: | How can I prevent a film forming on the top of the paint in a can? | | A: | Greetings. Put some mineral turps into a spray bottle and before you close a can after use, apply a squirt or two of the turps on to the surface of the paint. Then, without moving the can, replace the lid, and then very carefully, so that you do not disturb the film of turps, place the can where you will be storing it. The turps will be a barrier and help prevent a skin forming on the top of the paint.
Kind regards, Joe |
| | Q: | What's the best way to cool down a power tool that has overheated? | | A: | Greetings. It is very easy. Run the tool at full speed and under no load - ie, clear of the workpiece - for about 30 seconds or so; the cooling fan will drive air over the motor and cool it. Incidentally, it is a good idea to run a vacuum over the cooling vents of the tool after every extended usage to help remove any debris that might have collected in the body, and also remove any deposits on the fan itself as they will effect its efficiency.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | Hi,I recently a granny cottage,my walls on the inside have now been rhinolited..my problem is that whenever it rain i can see the walls are getting damp.i know there is no leak fromm the roof becauase the dampness is in the middle of the wall.the cottage is on a slab standing on 8 columns.any advise on how to sort this problem?i do have a face brick cottage | | A: | Greetings,
According to the company website, “Rhinolite is a lightweight retarded hemihydrate gypsum plaster, specially manufactured as a combined basecoat and finishing plaster for internal application onto brickwork, concrete block, concrete and Rhinoboard, and as a finishing plaster onto sand cement basecoats”. Given that it is a product formulated for interior use, prolonged exposure to moisture in the wall could be problematic after a while. Hence, since you write that there is no problem with the gutters, without being able to examine the wall, and reading that it is apparently a face-brick wall, the only suggestion I can make is that you seal the outside of the wall. If it is on the weather side, then driving rain may well be causing water to seep through the wall via the mortar. I can suggest two sealing products to consider. One is Aquapel, by Duram, and sells at Mica stores for around R74/litre, and the other is NC120, by Alcolin, selling for about R350/5 litres. Both are designed to seal brickwork and are clear, so the appearance of the wall will not be altered. However, it is important that you allow the wall sufficient time to dry out completely, before applying the product of your choice, otherwise you will simply trap the moisture in the wall. If you still notice a moisture problem after the next rains following the treatment, then you could have a problem with rising damp and would need to call in an expert who could thoroughly check the wall and then take the appropriate action.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | I've fascinated with DIY. What would you say are the must have basic tools to have for a beginner in DIY | | A: | Greetings.
I am very pleased to hear of your interest in DIY - it\'s a very useful attitude to have and over the years can save you thousands of rands in repair bills.
Here goes, but remember, you do not have to buy all of this at once, get it in stages, and be happy to handle tools before making your purchase. As you are a woman, you will probably have small-ish hands, so ensure that any item you buy has a grip that suits your hand, and is comfortable. Here we go...
5m steel tape measure;
Claw hammer - available in a range of head weights; go for the midrange - about 350g;
Set of insulated pliers - wireman\'s; needle (long-nosed) and wire clipper;
Set of screwdrivers or screwdriver with replaceable bits;
Cordless drill/driver;
Mains-powered drill - about 500W;
Jigsaw;
Junior hacksaw;
Wood saw, or back saw;
Mitre box;
Stanley knife;
Spirit level;
Small adjustable spanner;
Set of four or five paint brushes: 25, 30, 38, 50mm;
Roller and tray with three removable roller heads;
Large adjustable spanner - 250mm;
One pair of vice grips
A pair of G-Clamps - 150mm;
A folding workbench, on which you can work.
A cupboard, box or drawer in which to keep them; it\'s also as well to keep a torch in the same container, so that you have light when you need it, and i also keep a small hand-mirror with my tools - it\'s useful for seeing under cupboards etc for that screw you just dropped.
As time passes and your skills grow, so you will find other tools that you will want; enjoy!
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | After much rain, vertical cracks now appeared in the corner of 2x walls and above 2x doors.What can I use to repair this. | | A: | Greetings.
Filling them with a product such as Polyfilla Interior, available from your local Mica, would be a good choice. It is available in packs of 500g and 2kg cartons and 12kg paper bags, but you will find the 500g pack quite sufficient for the task at hand. Pour a tablespoonful or so of the filler powder into a clean container, such as a saucer, and add just enough water to create a thick but workable paste. If you add too much water, then simple add a little extra filler to thicken it up (if the filler is too wet, it will tend to ‘flow’.
Apply the filler to the cracks with a spatula, leaving it slightly proud (higher than) the surrounding wall. Allow time for the filler to dry, and then sand the excess off with 120 grit sandpaper. Then repaint the area.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | Do you get a special paint that I could use to touch up the inside of my Samsung microwave oven door> If so, how safe is it? | | A: | Greetings. My suggestion is not touch up the door; there are paints available, and I understand Rust-o-leum has a product, but I think the risk of food contamination is too great, and let’s face it, new microwaves are not that expensive these days. My suggestion is purchase a new one, and ensure that after each use the door is left open to allow the interior to dry.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | hi, we have recently built a house and the decking was not done properly, the steel is still visible, is there anything that we can use to strengthen the concrete? if there is, what is the price of the product. thank you so much | | A: | Greetings, it is very difficult providing an answer without seeing what the specific problem is; I assume the since you mention concrete, that the support piles are concrete and that that is where the steel is exposed. If so, then yes, this is a problem since the exposed steel with eventually rust, and as it does, the rust will progressively penetrate into the steel still embedded in the concrete. When that happens, as the steel is oxidised (rusts) it will expand, cracking the concrete surrounding it and exposing more of the pile to corrosion. I checked with my local Mica building department and they do not suggest any product that might be used to clad the pile, other than concrete itself. On that basis all I can suggest (and I am quite prepared to accept I may be WELL off beam on this) is that you put shuttering (former boards) around the pile (you’ll end up with a pile with a square cross-section) so that it allows for a minimum thickness of about 25mm of concrete on any part of the pile. Then fill the mould with a good, strong concrete mix so that it completely shrouds the pile and covers the exposed steel. I trust the above will be of help, but please write again if not, and I will try to source another answer for you.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | is there a removable paint, need to paint the facebrick walls of a theatre and remove the paint after the end of the show. | | A: | Greetings, I have checked and am also awaiting a response from a couple of people in the business, but I am not aware of any paint that can be applied and then washed off. The problem with applying it to a face brick wall is that the bricks have porous surfaces, and paint will get into pores etc and will be most difficult to remove. As soon as I have any further information for you, I will return to this answer and add to it.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | Hi, with all the recent rain we've been having in Gauteng, I have found that there is a sort of Green moss or green clouring forming on my concrete driveway and other areas wherever there is concrete. What can I use to remove this green type of substance. | | A: | Greetings. It sounds to me that what you have is an algae problem, and moss as well. If you have a pressure cleaner, you can blast it off, and/or apply a bleach/soap/water mix of 1 part bleach, 1 part dish washing liquid and 2 parts water. Pour the solution over the area, using a garden broom or stiff-bristled brush to spread it and also give the area a preliminary scrubbing. The bleach does the work, while the soap makes the bleach stick to the area. Leave it for about 10 minutes or so and then wash it off. This solution is rather a short-term one as the algae and/or moss will return once the surface has lost any residues of the bleach - probably during your next downfall - and will persist while the area remains damp. A longer-term solution is this… get hold of some ordinary flex and strip it of the insulation so you end up with the bare copper wires – you need only about 300mm or so. Cut the multi-strand copper filaments into lengths of about 50mm or so and sprinkle just a few where water pools on your drive. Moss and algae do not like copper, and while it might not prevent the problem altogether, it should retard the pests’ growth.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | I have a cockroach problem. I need Chlorpyrifos. Where can I get it? Does Mica stock it? Which Branch. | | A: | Greetings, I checked with my local Mica garden department and have been informed that this product has been withdrawn, as it was apparently found to be carcinogenic. It is suggested that you use Fendona, which is manufactured by BASF. If your local Mica does not stock the product I am sure it can be ordered for you.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | Hi i need to know how i can seal supawood edges. I was wanting to use wax and have mix up a bees wax mixture with stain but cant seem to get colour right as ive found some supawood is either lighter or darker. I dont want to use a varnish or a paint as I find it takes too long do you know of any other alternative? | | A: | Greetings. I have searched both the manufacturer\'s site and the Internet for an answer for you and what I have found is that some authorities recommend a product such as Woodoc 30, and one even suggested fibreglass resin. Whatever you use, you should aim for is a clear sanding sealer – your local Mica paint department will be able to advise you further on the suitability the Woodoc product or any alternatives. The bottom line is, however, I don’t think you will get away without applying a varnish or sealer. Repeated applications of a good-quality wax polish may work, but as it is absorbed by the wood, you would have to repeat the application periodically. An alternative that I have heard about, but never tried myself, is applying cold glue (which you can apply with the tip of a finger); it is white when it comes out of the bottle, but dries clear. Whatever you try, I’d suggest try it first on a very small area of an edge in an unobtrusive area and see what the result is; when happy, apply the same product/procedure to the rest of the edges. Kind regards, Joe |
| | Q: | Hi, my bath has bad rust stains it there any kind of paint I can use to restore the enamel,do you guys have specialists who do this on call outs or is it easy enough to do a DIY?? | | A: | Greetings,
Mica does not provide call-out services, but branches do stock a product called Rust-Oleum, which is designed for refurbishing baths, basins and so on. It is designed for the DIYer. If you local Mica does not have it in stock, they will be able to order it for you.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | Do you guys build houses? and do you have accounts that goes with it? | | A: | Greetings. No, Mica stores do not build houses but most Mica store owners will be able to point you to reputable builders, and most Mica stores stock building materials. As to whether you will be able to open an account, chat to the manager of your nearest Mica; he or she will be able to advise you as to what is required in terms of credit references and other requirements in order for an application for an account to be considered.
Kind regards, Joe |
| | Q: | Do you have any decor products and if so, what do you offer? | | A: | Greetings, Mica stores do usually stock decor items but you would be best advised to visit your local Mica - or a couple in your area - and see what they stock and find out whether they would be able to order anything specific on your behalf.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | Can I use my Infinity Card at Mica Fourways? | | A: | Greetings, to the best of my knowledge, yes you can. Mica is listed on the Infinity website: https://www.infinityrewards.co.za/endless/Member.
Kind regards, Joe |
| | Q: | HOW DO I SEAL A WINDOW AT THE BOTTOM ? BETWEEN THE FRAME & THE OPENNING PART (GLASS )WATER KEEPS
COMING ON THE GAP | | A: | Greetings,
I suggest add some weather strip along the inner edge of the frame. Self-adhesive weather strip (it is a dark, dense rubber ‘sponge’ in appearance) is available from your local Mica and is available in rolls in a variety of widths (chat to you local Mica for the best option for you, but I reckon the 10mm strip will be more than adequate). Peel off the protective cover and stick the strip to the inner edge of the frame where the opening window frame presses up against it. Then, ensuring there are no gaps, apply a strip up each side on the inner edge of the frame, again, where the window frame presses up against the fixed frame. That should ensure no water can enter.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | Hi there I would like to paint my driveway paving which is the best paint to use for this and that is not slippery.And what dose it price | | A: | Greetings. Probably your best bet is high-gloss oil-base stoep enamel but with a product such as Grip Additive added to make the finish less slippery. As the surface is outdoors a water-base finish might not work as well. Also bear in mind that in time whatever you apply will tend to wear off thanks to the action of vehicle tyres, so you will probably have to renew the surface periodically. Unfortunately I do not have a price for you, but call your local Mica and I am sure they will be able to provide you with a price.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | Good day,
Does Mica stock some kind of easy to assemble bookshelf building DIY kit?
I am working on a project for a library at a primary school, which is in need of new shelving. Unfortunately I have no idea how to go about this, and want to ensure that the shelving will be safe to hold books and not endanger children! While at the same time, looking for a relatively inexpensive solution.
Please advise on what you think would be the best way to go forward?
Regards. | | A: | Greetings, my apologies for the delay in responding but I have been in Europe and a volcano somewhat delayed my return for a few days. Mica stores do stock ready-to-assemble shelving units; my suggestion is chat to your local Mica store manager and check on what the store stocks. If that particular store does not stock them now, I am sure you could organise to have the appropriate units ordered for you.
Kind regards, Joe |
| | Q: | Where can i buy "Lazy Susan Bearings" for use in turntables?
| | A: | Greetings, my apologies for the delay in responding but I have been in Europe and a volcano somewhat delayed my return for a few days. My suggestion is chat to your local Mica store manager and check on what the store stocks. If that particular store does not stock them now, I am sure you could organise to have the appropriate units ordered for you. Failing that, you might also consider using the bearings used on TV stands; they will allow full rotation, and will bear quite a weight; again, see if your local Mica can place an order for you.
Kind regards, Joe |
| | Q: | Greetings! I need an advice regarding my cold bedroom wall. It is so cold in such a way I have even put a panel heater as my bed head is on this wall facing east and gets minimum sunlight. I want to insulate the whole wall if it's possible. It only has a primer coat. | | A: | Greetings, the only suggestion I can make is that you clad the wall, from floor to ceiling, with interior plywood sheets - your local Mica will have them in stock; they are available in full sheets - 2440x1220 and half and quarter sheets. Even 3mm ply will have some insulating properties. Attach the sheets to the wall, skim the joins, so that you achieve a result that is both smooth and flat, and then paint the ply in the colour of your choice. Unfortunately, I cannot think of any other solution, but will also do some research and if I find anything suitable, I will edit this answer.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | Hi,our sealings are rhinolite on them, after 2 years the are cracks appearing where they cone together, our roof is sink dak and can it be from raining so much ,got damp .to crack so soon and how do we fix it.? | | A: | Greetings, what you might find is that with all the rain there is not so much a leak in the roof, but rather condensation on the lower surface, and that is dripping on to the Rhino Board and wetting it. I suggest first confirm that there isn\\\'t a leak in the roofing - this will entail climbing into the ceiling and checking. If there is a leak anywhere - and bear in mind it might not be directly above the problem area - its repair should see the end of the problem. If, however, there is no leak then I can only go with the condensation issue, in which case you might have to consider installing a couple of roof vents on the windward and leeward sides of the roof so that the ceiling area is ventilated and moisture can escape. You might consider consulting a roofing expert as well; it is difficult to assess a problem without being able to view it in person and an expert who might spot the cause that has escaped both you and me. As regards the ceiling cracks; if they are not too wide, then interior filler should sort out the problem. Make up a mix as per the manufacturer’s instructions and apply it to the cracks with a spatula. Once it has dried, sand it smooth with the surrounding surface and paint to match the ceiling. For wider cracks, you may need to either apply a couple of layers of filler, or use a mesh – your local Mica will be able to supply you with the right product - which will bridge the gap. Filler is then applied over the mesh and finally sanded and painted as per normal. I trust the above will be of assistance to you.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | what is the benfit of working with any mica store. | | A: | Greetings, I am not sure that I understand your question, but I will try to answer it. The benefits of being a customer are the benefits of patronising a highly successful organisation that collectively has the knowledge and expertise to advise you and provide you with the requisites in just about any DIY, home maintenance, building or related task in which you may be engaged. If a contractor, supplier or working with Mica in some other capacity, then again, the benefits of working with a large and successful group are manifest.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | Soek opvou deure, het julle beskikbaar en watter grotes en pryse?
Dankie
Errol | | A: | Groete Errol,
Baie dankie vir u ondersoek. Ja, Mica het deure beskikbaar. Die beste plan van aksie is om jou naaste Mica te besoek om pryse te kry. Grotes is 40mm x 2032mm x 813mm, maar vra by jou Mica as veskillende grotes beskibaar is. Baie dankie, Joe |
| | Q: | Is there anywhere in the Gauteng area where one can actually fill up a 3kg gas cylinder? Despite visiting 8 different fuel stations and four different hardware stores, I'm still stuck without any gas. Or is the sale of gas heaters merely another bad joke at the general populace's expense? | | A: | Greetings,
Sorry to hear of your problems. I have searched for outlets (hence the delay in responding) offering a refill service in Gauteng and have the following possibilities for you. Some Mica outlets do offer the service, so try those in your area first, but failing that, the following urls are for other companies. Unfortunately I don\'t know where in Gauteng you reside, so my apologies for the somewhat \'shotgun\' approach. Try these sites: www.cadacinternational.com; www.hotfrog.co.za/; www.powersaving.co.za; www.ileadcatering.co.za; www.thegascompany.co.za; www.simsgas.co.za. If, in some cases, they do not offer the service, as they are in the sector they should be able to advise you as to who does.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | Hi There
We are going to move into a new house. All the walls are stippled (a cottage cheese like texture) we'd like to get rid of it. Would you suggest taking the stipple off or plastering over? What is our best long lasting solution? We can make a mess before we move in and would like the result to last. Can you recommend an expert to help (CT area) Thank you for any suggestions | | A: | Greetings, and my apologies for the delay in responding; I have been away on business. As regards removing/plastering over the stippling, it’s very difficult to make a hard-and-fast suggestion, but I doubt that the plaster would have to be removed, and it should be possible to render the surface, depending possibly on the ‘depth’ of the stippling (render is a wet mix that is applied to walls [screeding is the term given to floors and other level surfaces] where it fills small holes for a smooth finish). If the walls are previously painted – a safe assumption – then loose paint should be removed first and then the wall rendered smooth, but that could well depend as well on the type of paint that has been applied. As to the issue of a good contractor, I suggest you contact your local Mica and get some names from them of contractors in your area who have a good name. Then approach three or so and have them come in and check out the surface and suggest solutions. They may well reckon that my advice does not apply due to some characteristic of the stippling, or some other issue, but at least if you have the opinions of reputable contractors on the spot you will be in a better position to judge which course of action will suit you best.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | how can i fix my leaking roof, for i would like to put a sealing. | | A: | Greetings, Mica stores stock a range of sealant products for roofs, and applying the products is generally very straight-forward. Chat to your local Mica regarding the best product for your type of roof and roofing material and having located the leak in the roof, apply the product as per the manufacturer\'s instructions. Thereafter, you should be able to install your ceiling. Kind regards, Joe |
| | Q: | hi,
can you please assist me - i would like to repaint my oil heater and the paint is peeling off- any suggestions on which paint to use and if it is possible to paint.
many thanks | | A: | Greetings,
Yes, it is possible to repaint an oil heater. First of all, use a wire brush and 120 grit sandpaper to remove any rust and/or loose paint, and get down to the bare metal. (There is no need to remove the paint where it is still in good condition.) Now apply a good primer, and then a heat-resistant paint - your local Mica paint department will be able to advise you on both products. Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | i am asking the contact number of Mica in GIYANi, limpopo province | | A: | Greetings, I cannot find an entry for a Mica in Giyani; the Mica stores I have listed for Limpopo are the following:
Busler Mica
Tel: 014 772 2000
Fax: 014 772 2000
Store Address: 34/1446 Warmbaths Road
Thabazimbi
________________________________________
Elite Mica
Tel: 014 763 2448
Fax: 014 763 5032
Store Address: Louis Botha Avenue
Ellisras
0555
________________________________________
Heqlen Mica
Tel: 015 781 3691
Fax: 015 781 3693
Store Address: 6 Nelson Mandela Road
Phalaborwa
1390
________________________________________
Hoedspruit Mica
Tel: 015 793 1040
Fax: 086 651 3373
Store Address: Shop 17 – 20
Hoedspruit Wildlife Shopping Centre
Hoedspruit
________________________________________
Lifestyle Mica Home Warehouse Polokwane
Tel: 015 2971590
Fax: 086 637 6610
Store Address: Cnr. Landros Marais & Market Street
Polokwane
________________________________________
Lighthouse Mica
Tel: 015 295 9904/5/6
Fax: 015 295 4606
Store Address: Cnr. Jorissen & Church Strs
Polokwane
0699
________________________________________
P & J Mica
Tel: 014 736 5201
Fax: 014 736 5201
Store Address: Shop 4 & 5
11 Pretoria Street
Warmbad
0480
________________________________________
Tambotie Mica
Tel: 014 717 3180
Fax: 014 717 3180
Store Address: Cnr. Voortrekker & Potgieter
Nylstroom
0510
I suggest select the one closest to you or most conveniently situated for you and contact them. kind regards, Joe |
| | Q: | I need a quotation for alluminium and wooden frames. Do you sell the mentioned items. | | A: | Greetings, it is not clear what sort of frames you require, but I presume you are looking for window frames. Visit your local Mica and if they do not have the products in stock that you need, I am sure they will be able to order them for you. In passing, wooden window frames are commonly available, as are aluminium versions, but the latter is likely to be more expensive than its wooden equivalent. Kind regards, Joe |
| | Q: | Hi there
How do i go about getting my product/s listed at a Mica store.
Please let me know.
Thanks so much. | | A: | Greetings, I have forwarded your query to our head office for their response. Kind regards, Joe |
| | Q: | Hi how much will it cost for this pine wood about 1cm thick- (40x60cm)x4 & (40x40cm)x2 | | A: | Greetings, the thinnest stock SA pine sold is 12mm thick, by 144mm wide and in stock lengths. The closest I can think of that would match what you want is laminated timber, which is 19mm thick and available in widths of (amongst others) 305, 380 and 455mm. The latter would be closest to what you require and would be available in lengths of 1.8, 2.4 and 3m. You would be able to have what you need cut from a 1.8m length, the cost of which is around R200. However, I suggest chat to your local Mica and see whether they can source timber closer to the specifications you require. You could also perhaps purchase the 1.8m length and take it to a timber merchant who can cut it to the lengths you need and also pass it through a thicknesser to reduce it to the thickness you require. Kind regards, Joe |
| | Q: | Do you stock nails + staples for a Ryobi nail gun. If you do, what is the approximate price? | | A: | Greetings, Mica stores do stock Ryobi products so your local Mica should be able to order the required items for you, if they do not already have them in stock. The price will be determined by the nail specifications and pack sizes so it is difficult to give you a definitive price. Kind regards, Joe |
| | Q: | Dear Mica, I have the most horrible fungus growing on my walls, its actually embarrassing, and like most we often wonder on how much it would cost to fix ourselves. I am definitely going to use bleach and water and give it a good scrub. Another question: My bedroom walls are dark blue, and I really want to make it a lighter colour. What do you suggest I do? Lighter colour as in grey or a nice brown. I also don't want the mould or fungus seeping through the walls again. I would really appreciate your feedback. Thank you | | A: | Greetings,
First of all, the first step is always to check for causes – there’s no point in removing mould and/or repainting a wall only to have the problem re-occur. So, confirm that there are no leaks in the roof over the area of the wall that has the fungal growth. If there are any leaks, then have them sorted out first. If not, there if there is a large tree or building such as a carport that is preventing or slowing the time it takes the wall to dry out, you will need to consider removing it or cutting it back so that sufficient sunlight can reach the wall and dry it. Also, ensure that if you have an irrigation system that it does not also water your wall; that too can exacerbate or create a fungal/mould problem.
Bleach and water is a good first-stop solution (pardon the pun) to remove the fungus/mould. Thereafter scrub the wall well with a stiff brush and ensure all old or loose paint is removed. Then apply a good-quality sealer that will stop water penetrating the wall and then repaint the wall with a good-quality exterior wall paint with a good fungicide agent added – the staff of the paint department at your local Mica will be able to advise you as to the best products to use. That should sort out the problem.
On the question of your wall colours, in a north-facing (i.e. sunny room) you can use ‘cool’ colours such as light blue, light green to help ‘cool’ the room in summer. If the room is on the south-facing side of the house, then ‘warm’ colours such as terracotta, light brown, light/burnt orange will help ‘warm’ the room.
Personally, I have very light cream on my interior wall; it is light, reflects the light, and so helps keep the rooms somewhat lighter.
Hence, I reckon your suggestion of a (very light) brown could be well worth considering. I suggest, however… when you visit your local Mica’s paint department discuss your paint colour requirements with the staff who will be able to guide you. Then, armed with a selection of colour swatches, take a day or so to check each one out – checking it in bright sunlight (near the window?), shade (away from light sources), and under the lights. Colours react on the eye differently under different lighting conditions and by doing the above, you are more likely to select a good ‘one-size-fits-all’ colour.
One more suggestion, whatever colour you use, write its make, name and batch/lot number on the inside of the room’s light-switch cover so that should you even need to repaint the room and you want the same colour, you will be able to instantly identify it – without having to wrack your brain and possibly arrive at the wrong answer.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | Dear Sirs,
can you pleas give me the street-adress from you branch in Walvis Bay- Namibia.
Thank you verry much
Regards
Nicole | | A: | Greetings Nicole, the address I have is as follows: W B Mica Hardware, Walvis Bay. Telephone 0026464461838 Fax 0026464207145 Website www.mica.co.za
Address
Street Address 4th Street, Walvis Bay
City Walvis Bay
State / Province Namibia
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | I would like to know how one can apply a shelf or shelving without making a hole in the wall? is this possible? also, I've noticed alot of adverisments for "floating shelves". would this be an option?
Thank You | | A: | Greetings Janine,
Thank you for your inquiry. With regard to the issue of holes in the walls, I know of only one method of attaching shelves to walls without the use of fasteners – and that is by using an extremely strong wall-anchoring adhesive, the efficacy of which in any event is somewhat dependent on the quality of the wall covering (paint). If the latter’s adhesion to the wall has deteriorated in any way, then whatever adhesive is used would not hold any great weight for that long.
The floating shelves, to which you refer, and in fact, all shelves attached to walls, would require fasteners - and that means holes in the wall. Floating shelves are so called as their means of support are hidden by the shelves themselves. Here are some urls for information on floating shelves and I trust they will give you some ideas:
http://www.homemakersonline.co.za/features/235/diy-put-up-floating-shelves
http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Projects/Home-Organization/Bookshelves/how-to-build-floating-shelves
http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Projects/Home-Organization/Bookshelves/how-to-build-floating-shelves/Step-By-Step
http://www.diynetwork.com/videos/how-to-build-floating-shelves/40836.html
http://www.ronhazelton.com/article/home/walls/UDI5Mw/How_to_Make_and_Install_Floating_Shelves_for_the_Dining_Room
Further to the above, what I can suggest is this (sorry – it’s those holes again): having decided on the position of your floating shelves, drill the holes for the supporting threaded rod – depending on the weight the shelves are to bear, so the thicker the rods will have to be.
For example, let’s try 10mm rods: Your local Mica will have the rawl bolts of the required size, the threaded rod (available in lengths of 913mm – which you can cut the required lengths, and the necessary masonry bits. It will also have the timber you needs; in this example, let’s assume a length of timber 32 x 220mm. The steps are as follows:
1. Drill the holes for the two or however many rods you will be using – take extreme care to ensure they are all perfectly horizontal and on the same level - so that your shelf is both level when viewed from the front, and is also at 90 degrees to the wall.
2. Tap the rawl bolts into the holes so that they are below the surface of the plaster.
3. Use a cushioning block and spanner to tighten the bolt, spreading the rawl bolt segments and anchoring each in position.
4. Now remove the bolts and screw in the lengths of threaded rod - so you end up with what looks like two or however many rods sticking out of the wall.
5. Now line up your shelf on each, and mark the centre of the timber and drill a 10mm hole in each position into the timber to the required depth. Again, ensure you drill very accurately.
6. Now tap the shelf on to the threaded rods – using a cushion of timber to protect the shelf from being marred by the mallet’s head.
If you got everything right, you will now have a shelf that just seems to ‘float’ on the wall. The www.ronhazelton.com images will show you what you can expect.
But… sorry about those holes.
I trust the above will be of assistance to you.
Kind regards,
Joe |
| | Q: | price range for frames for windows but anamuel please
thanks | | A: | Greetings, yes, Mica does stock window frames but there is such a wide range available in a range sixes, pane sizes and materials, it is best for you to visit your local Mica and check out what is available for your needs. Kind regards, Joe |
| | Q: | Do you stock cement, If do how much does it cost? Also do you have advise on how to use it? What are your systems regarding donations and discounts? | | A: | Greetings, yes, Mica does stock cement – pockets (costing about R70 per pocket) and also ready-mix (which is a pre-mixed cement/sand/stone mix to which you just have to add water and then mix to a workable consistency), which you can use for small jobs such as anchoring fence posts and the like. The pockets of cement have the various applications and the relevant cement/sand/stone proportions printed on the outside of the bag so it’s very user-friendly. Kind regards, Joe |
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