DIY Projects

Functional DIY Projects

This drying rack isn’t so difficult to make and ends up looking okay – well, I think so anyway!

It has been sized to accommodate a standard bath towel without scrunching it up to fit on the bars, but the height, width and number of rails is up to you.

In this case, the square-section aluminium extrusion lengths were cut to 750mm each, leaving 250mm (less the width of the cutting saw’s blade) for the swivelling feet.

As this is a bespoke rack, you can decide for yourself how many rails you wish to install, and what your rack’s dimensions will be.

Materials:

  • Aluminium extrusion:
    • Square 25x25mm x 2.5m – 2 lengths
    • Tube 12mmØ x 2.5m – 2 lengths
  • Stainless steel:
    • 8mmØ x1m threaded rod – 3 lengths
    • 8mm x 25mm washers – 14
    • 8mm dome nuts – 4
    • 8mm wing nuts – 4
    • 10x16mm self-tapping screws – 2
    • 8mm flat or fender washers – 2
    • 4mm flat or fender washers – 4
  • 25mm polymer/polyamide connectors and end caps/feet:
    • Corner connectors – 4
    • Adjustable connector – 0-190º – 2
    • 25mm male end caps – 4
  • Nylon strap – 25mm – 2m
  • Plastic 25mm buckles – 2

Pop rivets (large flange) – 3.2x8mm – 4 (For a complete rundown on pop rivets [also known as blind rivets], riveters, and how to use them, refer to A riveting tale… how to use pop rivets)

Method:

  1. First of all, if you are going to use a circular saw to cut your aluminium, use the correct blade, one specifically designed for cutting the material. Using the incorrect blade risks it jamming or possibly being damaged. After all, you would not use a crosscut saw designed for cutting wood to cut steel or aluminium or any other metal, right?
  2. Here are the main components – the 25mm extrusion, 8mmØ s/s threaded rods (2 of them at this stage), connectors and nuts, and washers (I dispensed with the larger fender 32mmØ washers and stuck with the smaller 25mmØ versions).
  3. These swivel hinges allow for a range of movement between 0-190º, though 0º is not really an option as the arms to not in practice close up to 0º, but closer to about 5º. But they can be locked at any angle between, and so the rack can be locked to fit any size bath or convenient width.
  4. I decided to use the good old hacksaw to cut the pieces, and to keep the blade vertical for a more accurate cut, made up this ‘mitre guide’.
  5. As mentioned above, I cut each arm and crosspiece to 750mm.
  1. And off we go… the more accurate the cut, the neater the final result – that sounds obvious, I know but…
  2. Here are the ends of the six lengths, with the two short 250mm feet.
  3. Cutting results in very sharp edges with tiny slivers of material hanging on. These need to be removed so that there is nothing left to snag any delicate material such as pantyhose material or silk.
  4. So, they are all filed a little, at an angle of about 30-45º… this tends to “round off” the cut ends, making them safe for any material.
  5. I began with the two feet, using a centre punch and a gauge to set the point for the foot 8mmØ pivot bolts at 12.5mm in from the one end and centred on the extrusion centreline (the extrusion being 25mm on each side).
  1. I marked the positions of the rails at 240mm intervals, with the top rail – slipped over the top threaded rod acting as an axle for the hinges, being 295mm above the middle rail. (See illustration.)
  2. Using an automatic centre punch and gauge exactly as before, I marked the centre point for each rail position. In this case, it was for the upper middle rail (not the very top rail that is actually helps make up the hinge for the swivel hinges).
  3. These holes were 12.5mmØ, in order to accommodate the rail.
  4. Note that they are drilled into one side only.
  5. Here I am using a centre punch to make the indents for the holes.
  1. You will get a far more accurate result if you use a small drill bit, 2mm or so, to drill pilot holes, and then use your full-size bits 8mmØ for the threaded rod and 12.5mmØ for the upper middle tube rail to complete the holes.
  2. These are the two feet, with their male end caps tapped into place. Don’t use a claw hammer or similar, but rather a wooden mallet, as shown here, or a rubber mallet.
  3. Alternatively, and this is my preferred method, I used a bar clamp, with a piece of wood as a cushion, to push the corner connectors into position.
  4. Naturally, the far end of the extrusion was also cushioned.
  5. I attached only one corner connector at first, and used the crosspiece length to ascertain the correct cut for the upper middle rail tube. The ends of this rail will be seated in the uprights, so ensure that you allow for the thickness of the extrusion side when marking you cut-off point… if you cut the tube too long, it will splay the uprights, so rather cut it a little – 3-4mm shorter. It will still it comfortably within the uprights.
  1. A pipe cutter is the best way to cut the tubing.
  2. Once you are sure of the length, you can fit the tube into the 12.5mmØ holes you drilled in the uprights, and then connect the uprights to the crosspiece. Here is one side of the rack, completed to this stage. Repeat the procedure for the second side.
  3. Now to cut the threaded rod, which will form the axle for the feet… screw a dome nut on to one end, and with a washer added, mark off the length with some masking tape.
  4. Doing this will show you how much you need to allow when cutting the threaded rod to length.
  5. Cut the rod to length, and then the tube as well, allowing for a washer on each side, then slide the threaded rod over the tube, fit the washers on to the end of the tube, then screw down the dome nuts. This shows the outer view…
  1. …And this shows the inner view. This fitting will help brace the frame. The rod’s length should be such that the dome nuts are turned down fully… to be fully seated on the ends of the rod.
  2. The other side of the frame will have the feet fitted to it. So that threaded rod is cut very slightly longer… about 2-3mm or so – than the one you have just cut, then you cut the tube for the rail, taking into account the four washers – as shown here.
  3. Here is another view showing the end of the tube meets the washer. This now explains why you cut the threaded rod slightly longer… with the dome nuts at each end fully seated, there is a little play so the feet can be swung into position without undue strain… they should not be absolutely locked in place, but have some freedom of movement – for obvious reasons.
  4. Here is the outer view; using dome nuts on each rail as shown here provides some symmetry.
  5. Then I used the bar clamp as before, so seat the swivel hinges on the ends of the uprights, and using the same method as before, cut the threaded rod to length. Note that first I set the one end just shy of the wing nut wings.
  1. Then I used tape, as before, to set my cutting length for the rod on the long side. Then I removed the rod, and made the cut.
    Hint 1: When cutting threaded rod, or even a bolt, turn a nut onto the end beyond the cutting point before making the cut. When you have made the cut you can then remove the nut, and as you do so, this will align the thread.
    Hint 2: As the rack would be used for drying fabrics or all kinds, I filed down each cut end of the rod forming the hinge to blunt it and remove any sharp edges on the thread that could snag any material and pull a thread or two.
  2. On the home stretch… I cut the strap in two, and seared the ends with a small blowtorch (a lighter will do just as well) to melt the thread and stop it fraying.
  3. To make the holes for the rivets, you can use either a punch (top), but ensure that you select a hole size that will fit the rivet very snugly… too large and the rivet will not have the required grip. Obviously, the punch actually cuts through the strap material. Or you could use an awl. This will not cut through the strap fabric, but will simply spread it. (Some might even try using a nail, if they do not have either of the above available.)
  4. I used four rivets – two per end – to secure the buckles to one end of each end of the strap. You can use an awl to make the holes in the strap through which you can push the rivets, or use a fabric punch.
  5. Top view, showing the large flange…
  1. …Bottom view showing the use of the small washers to secure the ends of the rivets. This provides a very strong join.
  2. I decided to attach the strap to the feet using a stainless steel screw and washer for each attachment. This will make it easier to replace the straps in the future, should you ever need to.
  3. The strap is attached to the outer end of the foot, loops around the cross-member, and back through the buckle. Making it adjustable means you can adjust it as required depending on the design of the bath on which you will place the rack… more on this below…
  4. You can use it free-standing as here…
  5. … Or you can open it out fully and lean it against a wall or pole, as shown here.
  1. Here it is over the bath.
  2. And here is where the strap adjustment comes in handy… this part of the bath’s rim narrows to accommodate a handle, so you can adjust the strap if necessary to level the rack, as the foot on the other side…
  3. … Rests on the wider part of the bath’s rim. Cunning, eh!
  1. This illustration shows how this rack measures up, but as said above, you can adapt it for you own needs.
  1. Here it is doing what it is designed to do…

Panel:

These materials are available at Selected Mica Stores. To find your closest Mica and whether or not they stock the items required, please go to www.mica.co.za, find your store and call them. If your local Mica does not stock exactly what you need they will be able to order it for you or suggest an alternative product or a reputable source.

Project guide

  • TIME: 2-3 days
  • COST: circa R1000 – but it will last a lifetime
  • Skill: 3

Tools required:

Cordless or mains drill/driver, hacksaw (or mitre saw fitted with a blade to cut aluminium), automatic centre punch (or centre punch*), hammer, spanners, tube cutter, mini blowtorch or lighter, scissors able to handle straps, fabric punch or awl, wooden or rubber mallet (but preferably a bar clamp of sufficient length to seat the corner connectors and swivel connectors in the 25mm extrusions.

*The difference between the two is that the automatic centre punch is hand-operated and uses a spring/trip mechanism to drive the point of the punch into the metal. The centre punch is also held in the hand, but a hammer is used to tap it, thereby indenting the metal surface at the desired spot.