Unleash your inner Beatle with this guitar stand.

When cutting the timbers, rather make them longer than shorter: you will be trimming and shaping them and a little more in terms of offcuts is better than cutting the pieces and discovering they are too short – in which case you would probably have to discard them and start again.

  • SA pine – 1x 1.8m length – 144x12mm; meranti – 2 lengths of 1.8m – 144x12mm.
  • Nylon strap – 500mm
  • Four 40mm mirror screws
  • One pair 75mm solid brass hinges
  • Wood glue
  • Finish of your choice – I used a gloss polyurethane sealer.
  1. The contrast in the wood’s colour and grain will be brought out even more when the sealer is applied.
  2. You want the stand to lean backwards slightly so that the guitar would be canted back a little to move its centre of gravity back and so gave the stand a 15° slant backwards. Use a bevel to fix the angle.
  3. I transferred the angle to the timber.
  4. With the first two pieces cut I did a dry fit with the guitar.
  5. Once satisfied, I marked off and cut the rest of the timbers – there would be two of SA pine and four of meranti.
  6. This is how they slot together at the junction between the backrest and the foot. The pine in the backrest goes from the top neck-rest to the floor, while the meranti pieces flanking it butt up against the meranti pieces making up the foot.
  7. Go wild with the glue.
  8. Make sure all the pieces meet exactly and then clamp them together, as shown here. Note that used here is some 250 micron plastic between the two parts at the 105° join. This will ensure that no matter how much glue oozes out of the join, the two halves can be separated easily when the glue has cured. The reason for clamping the two halves together is to ensure that they are identical in profile.
  9. This is how the sides looked when the glue had cured.
  10. A planer was used to smooth and level the rear edges and bottom of each foot.
  11. Then sand them – this is a preliminary sanding… before assembling the pieces, sand them by hand for a really smooth finish.
  12. This is how those sides looked when planed and sanded.
  13. Trim the top to square it off.
  14. Now to shaping the two pieces. Ensure that the curve where it passes the join was only about 2mm within the join. This is to ensure that the joint between backrest and foot remains as strong as possible – not that it will be taking a massive weight, but rather stronger than weaker.
  15. With the curves marked off, cut the first side. Note that we cut as little of the foot away as possible, but made the backrest quite slender. This is to ensure that the foot would be as heavy as possible and the backrest as light as possible (commensurate with strength, of course) for greater stability.
  16. This shows the final shape. Use the first side as a template for the second, but when you cut the second, cut ON THE LINE, not outside of it as one normally does. This is because the line is already on the outer edge of the first shape. Save those offcuts!
  17. Clamp the shaped sides together and use a sander and drum sander on a drill to match them up and clean up the profile. Then I used a router with a rounding-off bit to round off the leading edges of each side.
  18. Now for two of those offcuts… Match them up by sanding them and then round off their top outer curved edge just as the rounded off the leading edges of both sides. Then glue one each to the outside lower surface of each foot. The reason for doing this? Simple… it adds a little weight to each foot and also increases their apparent width when open. Both these factors improve the stand’s stability.
  19. Fit the hinges about 50mm or so from the top of the neck rest and from the bottom of the foot, using a chisel to cut the recesses for each leaf. Note that both sides are clamped in position to ensure that the hinges fit properly on both. After this give all the surfaces a final sanding with 220 grit sand paper and then applied three coats of the finish, lightly sanding after the first and second coats.
  20. Use a short length of nylon strap secured with mirror screws to support the guitar’s neck.
  21. Set the ideal spread of the two halves of the unit with more nylon strap, secured with mirror screws. The beauty of using a strap like this is that should you buy another guitar and it has a different width, adapting the stand to fit is a simple job.

Guitar stand with guitar

The completed stand is sturdy and stable, and folds when not in use – a serendipitous benefit that comes from using hinges to join the two halves.

These materials are available at Selected Mica Stores. To find out which is your closest Mica and whether or not they stock the items required, please go to www.mica.co.za, find your store and call them. If your local Mica does not stock exactly what you need they will be able to order it for you or suggest an alternative product or a reputable source.

Project guide:

TIME: Three days
COST: R300-R400
Skill: 4

Tools required:

Circular cut-off saw, jigsaw, cordless drill/driver, sander, router, planer, 20mm chisel and wooden mallet; craft knife.