Solid pool covers are excellent for reducing water loss due to evaporation and they are also a safeguard against children and pets falling into the pool. But sometimes you want to store them away for a while. This easy-to-make rack will keep your pool cover safely out of the way.

You can buy supports, but I used treated SA pine and stainless steel fastenings to make four bespoke brackets; the wood will last decades and the fastenings are corrosion-proof – so they will be around for a lifetime.


  • Treated SA pine – two 1.8m lengths of 22x69mm – these supports used a total of about 3m, but you can adjust your materials to suit the number of supports you will be making, and their dimensions.
  • Stainless steel securing fasteners – 6x60mm stainless steel bolts; 3x32mmØ stainless steel fender washers; and 40mm stainless steel 8 gauge screws.
  • Rawlplugs


An illustration showing the brackets’ dimensions. The various screws securing the securing block and 45° brace for the support are shown in red and the wall bolts and fender washers in grey.

  1. The solid cover rolled up and ready for storage.
  2. First of all, measure the roll’s length and diameter as the horizontal supports on which it will rest have to be long enough to fully support it, without being made too long – which would be an unnecessary waste of wood, and a possible hazard for any passer-by.
  3. In this case, 230mm would be sufficient.
  4. I used a circular saw to cut the various pieces, and also rip the left-over piece down the middle.
  5. In passing, ensure that you avoid knots in the wood as they are weak spots… in this case it’s about 18mm deep across about half with width of the timber.
  6. The fasteners… 6x60mm stainless steel bolts; 3x32mmØ stainless steel fender washers; rawl plugs and 40mm stainless steel 8 gauge screws (not shown).
  7. Having cut the pieces for one bracket, I checked with a dry fit that I was happy with the result.
  8. I cut four sections of the ripped timber (see [4] above) each to 70mm long as securing blocks. Here are all the various pieces for one bracket.
  9. I used a bridging clamp setup to hold the securing block in position.
  10. I drilled two pilot holes for securing screws (pilot holes will reduce the risk of the block splitting as the screws are driven in).
  11. I secured the block with two screws.
  12. Then I positioned and clamped the horizontal support to the wall support as shown – 100mm down from the bevelled end. (I bevelled the ends of the wall supports for no other reason that I just liked it that way.)
  13. I secured that in the same manner as just above, but this time using three screws to secure the block. This is a very effective way to secure the horizontal support to the wall support as the screws are all driven in across the grain, not parallel with it. That makes for a very strong join.
  14. I took the fender washers and clamped them in a vice as shown, using one of the bolts as a guide so that the bolt head could be turned freely.
  15. Then I bent the washer on a 45° angle, using one of the blocks and a mallet to keep the washer surface flat.
  16. This is how it will fit against the bottom of the 45° brace… to really strengthen the whole assembly.
  17. With screws driven in to secure the 45° brace, this is a completed bracket.
  18. I then made up the other three, using the first as a template. Note that I have also predrilled the bolt securing holes.
  19. When drilling a large hole into a wall, a good way to do it is to drill the hole first with a small bit… say 6mmØ and then use an 8mmØ and finally the 10mmØ you need for the rawlplugs. It’s actually quite fast and eases the strain on the drill.
  20. I secured the first and last brackets with the top bolt first and ensured that they were vertical.
  21. Then I drilled the holes for the lower bolt and secured it – note the fender washer helps anchor the bottom of the brace.
  22. The first bracket in position. I then placed the solid cover on the two brackets, placed the second and third at the required points and pushed each up under the cover so that each would take their fair share of the weight of the cover. Then I secured them as I did the first and fourth. I ensured that all four brackets were absolutely vertical so that the cover rests flat on the supports. Note that the cover overhangs the end brackets on each side by about 500mm or so… the total length of the rolled-up cover is 3.6m.
  23. The completed setup… neat (well, I think so) and it will last forever… certainly longer then I will.

The completed table… a nice mix – we think – of meranti and SA pine, and the finish brings out the grain very nicely.

Project guide

Skill level: 1

Estimated time: a couple of hours, depending on how many brackets you make.

Cost: R200 or so

Assistant: No

Tools required:

Drill/driver, jigsaw or circular saw; impact drill/hammer for the wall holes.


These materials are available at Selected Mica Stores. To find your closest Mica and whether or not they stock the items required, please go to, find your store and call them. If your local Mica does not stock exactly what you need they will be able to order it for you or suggest an alternative product or a reputable source.